Walking down the street in Barcelona, I heard the sound of rap music. Looking up, I saw a young black man—maybe 19 or 20—sitting on a small metal balcony next to his speakers. Of all the MCs in the world, the brother was listening to Eazy E! It was old school gangsta rap blasting on the even older school streets of Barcelona. Welcome to Europe circa 2009.


Walking past that old school hip hop fan, I went on in search of 4 Gats, a vintage restaurant that used to be one of the painter Pablo Picasso’s hang outs early in his legendary career. It is an ornate, gilded-age establishment with waiters in black bow ties, white shirts and black vests. As in an old library, there are stairs that lead diners to a second level of seats that encircle the main dining area.

The food was as fine as the decor. I had Fisherman’s soupy rice, which was filled with great slices of fish, while my friends had prawns with mushrooms in cava sauce and barcola (fish) with spinach. After that throwback meal I was thrust forward into the present by the sound of explosions. Turning a corner I saw fireworks high in the sky. Several thousand people were gathered to shout and cheer in a large square as a very elaborate display of light filled the night. It was great way to end my first night in Barcelona.