Connect with BlackAtlas on:

Get the inside scoop on Buenos Aires, Argentina

194 Comment(s)

GIANTlife
Traveler
taylormade
Apr 1, 2010

It Takes Two to Tango

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Traveling to Europe has always been a plan of ours so when my husband and I started looking for January honeymoon destinations, London, Paris and Rome just seemed a bit too chilly (not to mention,expensive!) and the Caribbean/Mexico seemed done. Before you knew it, we were planning a nice stay-cation in beautiful Sarasota, Florida. Honeymoon in Sarasota? Not Happening! After a thorough research for unique cities with a European flare we found ourselves booking a flight for Argentina and Buenos Aires, the Paris of South America!

The first thing we both noticed as we sat in the taxi, listening to The Police (you know, Sting) blaring over the radio, was that this Latin American country was NOT MEXICO. We were in a large, sprawling city; one that was surprisingly Parisian and metropolitan but distinctively Latin America. We immediately set out on our adventure with 6 years of Spanish under our collective belts and consumed by just how European Buenos Aires really was.

Walking the cobblestone roads of the San Telmo barrio, Calle Defensa is a long street lined with old buildings, antique shops and boutiques. It’s also home to an extensive street market on Sundays that sees anywhere between 30 to 40 thousand people! With its music, street dancing/performances, and of course food, it’s much more than just your average farmers market. Even the locals or porteños as they call themselves, perch on their balconies and crowd the cafés along the street, catching up with old friends and participate in a little people watching. We strangely felt right at home. Definitely worth changing our flight plans to stay an extra day so we could experience it.

Plaza de Mayo is another community gathering location of sorts in the Microcentro (City Center) barrio of Buenos Aires. Here you might find people eating their lunch during the work week or even groups of people holding political demonstrations. When we visited, we saw many people drinking maté, an herbal tea and official/unofficial drink of Argentina, which is passed around in a circle and drunk through a metal straw. We had the opportunity to try it and I have to admit, it’s an acquired taste! Despite our less than desirable rating of the tea, we could definitely appreciate the sense of camaraderie that’s shared between friends and family when they partake.

Casa Rosada is the backdrop to Plaza de Mayo and is the White House equivalent in Buenos Aires… well, with distinction that it’s pink in color. The immediate thing that struck us was how close you could get to the building. Sure, there’s a secured gate around the perimeter but I’m quite certain we wouldn’t get that close to the white house without risking arrest! Casa Rosada is also where Eva Peron, affectionately and more famously known as Evita (cue the song, Don’t Cry For Me Argentina), made her famous speech from the balcony. Speaking of Evita, her final resting place lies in one of the world’s most famous cemeteries in the barrio of Recoleta. It’s actually a collection of elaborate mausoleums that’s a must visit in Buenos Aires.

Despite all of the European connections to this city, there are two major things that are indigenous and distinct to the people of Argentina: parrillas and tango! If you’re a carnivore and believe steak is the holy grail of meat, then look no further. Parrillas are essentially steak houses and are easily found throughout the city. From a hole in the wall, to a five star restaurant, one thing is fairly consistent, the quality of Argentine beef is like no other you will ever, and I mean ever consume. One restaurant, La Brigada, was even so bold as to cut the steaks at our table with spoons! I kid you not. And I won’t disclose how many nights we ate at a parrilla during our stay for fear of embarrassment; it was that good.

Just as there are parrillas abound in Buenos Aires, naturally you might expect to also find many leather shops. And I should add at incredible prices! Many of these shops and other fashion spots can be found in the Palermo barrio which is known as the trendy part of Buenos Aires. You might even rub elbows with some Argentine celebrities in the beautiful tree lined streets of Palermo Hollywood or Palermo Soho as many of them take residence there.

Colorful buildings make up the streets of the La Boca barrio which is known as the birthplace of tango. There’s a touristy area of the barrio where you’ll find many dancers dancing the tango in the middle of the street and bandoneón (an accordion-like instrument) or violin players providing the music. You can even get a lesson right there if you’re feeling saucy. As a matter of fact, Café Tortoni, near Plaza de Mayo, is a famous restaurant where you can enjoy both a performance and take a lesson. Tango music has strong African influences specifically in the rhythm but is also quite multi-cultural in its roots. Try listening to a bit of Astor Piazolla, one of the most popular composers of tango tunes, to give you the flavor of this unique musical and dance genre.

One last thing you must do is visit (and cross if you dare) Avenida 9 de Juilo. It’s the largest avenue in the world with nine lanes on both sides for a total of 18. Okay, so it isn’t that dangerous but we were a little nervous crossing it, even with pedestrian signals. It’s surprisingly breathtaking to see the amount of traffic on this road on a weekday. You also can’t miss the huge monument in the middle of it, El Obelisco, which closely resembles the Washington monument.

We had an incredible time in Buenos Aires. The city and its people obviously have a rich history and culture. What’s refreshing though is that you truly get a sense that they are enjoying their city and culture just as much as you are. There’s an open door to be immersed in the culture without feeling like a tourist. For a moment we got to call ourselves porteños and for that, we are forever grateful.

Posted in: Culture, Dining, Points of Interest, Travel Tips
Features: Architecture, Arts, Food, Historical, Live Music, Romantic, Shopping, Sightseeing

Story Comments:

Thanks, taylormade. You are entered in our win a trip to Paris contest. http://editor.blackatlas.com/?p=193
by Venita

You've made me excited about going to visit South America. I've never been and the extent of my Latin America travel is Mexico and Panama. Awesome review!
by RahLa

Great entry! Spain is on my travel list. My very long travel list :) I've always been intrigued by the history and culture.
by tostyleandgrace

Love your review. Makes me want to visit!
by malariet

Wow what a great article! I have always wanted to go to Argentina- but this article really got me pumped and more excited to start researching!. I hope I enjoy Argentina as much as you both did!
by cindyrivera

I love this entry! Definitely makes me want to add South America to my list of "must go" places.
by PurrFection

You've convinced me that I need to check out Buenos Aires. We are in early stages of planning our yearly anniversary vacation and I'm thinking we may have found a country to visit!!
by GiaJ

It sounds like you and your husband had a wonderful time. Now my wife is going to ask me to take her now. Ha Ha.
by LLass

great read about BA! if you wanna get outside the city try a couple days at Iguazu Falls or check out the mountains of Bariloche. AND BUY ALL THE WINE YOU CAN TAKE HOME! better than Napa in my opinion!
by gatorPA

Sounds like a wonderful and amazing trip. Thanks for the awesome review. ~aka '06babbie
by chictravel

South America is definitely at the top of my travel list. Your review makes me feel like I was there. I can't wait!!
by VonAngel

Love the review!!! I see a future anniversary trip for me and hubby in the future.
by MDia

Thank you so much for sharing your experience in Argentina; the country has always been one of the top destinations in Latin America for me and now if I ever go, I will make sure to bookmark the places you mentioned. Thanks again :)
by LambdaLadyTail

We never considered South America as a travel destination, but your review has changed that. Thanks for the great information!
by modiva

Great review!
by gabbic

Thanks for the great review. I've never been to Argentina but it sounds like a beautiful place!
by mzshell

Thank you for sharing your experience. I've added another destination to my travel wish list.
by chinikamcm

Outstanding review.
by aggieengineer

Great view! You made me add this to my vacation wish list!
by ApearlC

Buenos Aires is one of my FAVORITE cities anywhere -- your great review reminds me why I need to get back there ASAP!
by UrbanTravelGirl

Wonderful review, Buenos Aires is now on my travel list!!
by TangyRW

Cute story! Hope to have a wonderfule expereince too!
by lgomes

Wow! Buenos Aries sounds wonderful! It was never on my list of places to go but now its at the top of the list!
by busybodyk

Great review!! I never thought to add this to my travel wish list, but you all make it seem so perfect. Thanks taylormade.
by SKtravel

Great review!! I now want to add to my travel wish list!! :) Thanks Taylormade.
by SKtravel

I definitely have to visit one day :)
by lambdaladysoldier

Great review!! I would love to make it to South America one day.
by tash

Now I want to go!
by lilaceace

What a great review. We look forward to visiting South America. It is on our "to travel to" list.
by abcorbin

I have always been interested in the Argentinian culture. Maybe now, one day I will get to see it first hand.
by kyvec

I never previously considered this place but it is now on our places to visit list. Thank you
by blacksred

Great review, now I want to visit.
by ctestman

Nice Article! You painted a beautiful picture! Makes me want to go!
by fragglerock

After reading this..I am def getting my passport stamped for Argentina
by samcook

OOOOO You just made me want to go to Argentina... GREAT article.
by BetaGammaAce

Great article and nice pictures. Like several others have commented, I too want to visit Buenos Aires now =)
by LilDeuce

Sounds fabulous! ... But now I want to go!! :-)
by smittie

Great review! What an excited place.
by EmmaB

I've been wanting to visit Latin America, but was undecided about which country to venture to first, thanks for the insight, Argentina sounds delightful!
by LTAladyfour

Sounds great!
by dlt

Well put, your taste is one I always respect!
by Lostboy

This place sounds really cool. I definitely want to go here now.
by letsgoto

Great review. Very informative. I've never consider Argentina before, but I think I'd like to visit it one day.
by littleloudshoes

I need to get myself out of the country soon, BA sounds fantastic.
by EducatedIvy

Hi I love the reviews. Thank you for sharing this. I know where i want to look for in the future. Thank you. Love the pictures.
by sweettamara

love your review! Thanks for sharing.
by lilcountry

OMG! Finally!!!!
by mrshill

Taylormade, thanks for this beautiful & extremely well written description of your experience!! You certainly made Buenos Aires sound incredible!! This city has definitely been added to my list of must see locations, thanks to you!!!
by Buddyslady

Well I need to pack my bags and head out there! Thanks for the information, I'm sold!
by marteemar

Great review! Hubby and I will definitely be looking into visitng for our 2 year anniversary.
by NillePatt